A higher helix will actually lift chips more than a lower helix. As a helix becomes less and less, there is less lifting force on the chips and they are moved vertically at a far slower rate. As a helix becomes shallower, the vertical forces on each chip become less and are therefore unable to lift chips as quickly. When it comes to a lower helix removing chips faster, we tend to disagree. Using a 4-flute tool with variable pitch as an example, the flutes could be spaced at 90.5 degrees, 88.2 degrees, 90.3 degrees, and 91 degrees (totaling 360°). The spacing can be minor but still able to achieve the desired effect. Similar to a variable helix, variable pitch tools have non-constant flute spacing, which helps to break up harmonics and reduce chatter. Using a 4-flute tool with an even pitch as an example, each flute would be separated by 90°. Pitch is the degree of radial separation between the cutting edges at a given point along the length of cut, most visible on the end of the end mill. A variable helix creates irregular timing between cuts, and can dampen reverberations that could otherwise lead to chatter. Implementing a helix angle that varies slightly between flutes is a technique used to combat chatter in some high-performance tooling. Certainly if you have a need for a 3/4" end mill.A moderate helix angle of 40° would result in a tool able to perform basic roughing, slotting, and finishing operations with good results. Definitely don't give me the surface finish of the branded end mills, but for $75 less 20% or whatever, I think they were a great buy. I've really only used the 3/4" ones (two flute/four flute) in the set and they have worked surprisingly well. I will note that the harbor freight set as a whole cost me less than a single 3/4" end mill from any name brand.
They help me stay organized they group my end mills by type and they keep them safe from banging into each other. The "sets" they sell are particularly great, I think. I have received parts labeled Titan USA when ordering direct from Kodiak, so they might be a reseller of sorts- not sure.
Yes, they are easy to chip if you do something dumb, but I'm still learning what "something dumb" actually means. Without question, my Kodiak stuff give me a much better finish and cut with significantly less effort. And I also have a couple no name (Accurite, Harbor Freight, etc) end mills. I have a pretty sizable collection (I think? For a hobbyist?) of Kodiak/Titan USA end mills. If you have a small machine or a mill/drill I would only go to 1/2" Like the larger size mills I only buy carbide for special jobs.įor a beginner I would suggest 1/8" to 3/4" by 1/16", if you have a mill powerful enough to handle the larger sizes. Most of the larger sizes were acquired for specific jobs. That's most likely because they were the brands handled by our local supplier. The most prolific brands seem to be FastCut, RapidKut, and Melin. I don't know which of these brands still exist, but I'm sure even if the companies are gone there is still some new tooling on the shelves. They are all good brands and there are undoubtedly others. A quick look revealed the following brands: Union, Cleveland, Morse, Niagara, Nachi, FastCut, RapidKut, Putnam, Beloit Regal, National, DoAll, Acculead, Melin, TRW, Weldon, and Hanita. There are close to 1,000 end mills in the cabinets. I don't exclusively use Niagara, but I do try to stick to known brands, made in the USA whenever possible. The Niagara ones worked as they should and the job was completed on time. I returned them and replaced them with Niagara brand. They bounced around like they were made out of rubber rather than do any cutting. I bought a box of 3/8" ball nose end mills for a special job. Only 1 time did I intentionally buy some off shore tooling and it was a disaster. I have no idea what brand end mills you bought from Amazon, but I can tell you from my experience the American made ones have been far better than the Asian imports.
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